The Siren Shell pattern is an elegant and easy crochet pullover suitable for adventurous beginners. It would make a lovely project for anyone ready to make a pullover. The only sewing required is to sew the front and back panels together. Read through my inspiration for the Siren Shell Pullover and the design process. Or you can just scroll down for the free pattern.
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The Inspiration
The last crochet tee pattern I designed was for my two girls (you can check out the Teagan Summer Crochet Top here) and so this time I wanted to make something for myself. I like to design clothing that is suitable for both work and social events. For my day-time job I am a researcher so I don’t usually need to dress up. However, sometimes I have meetings and events that I need to attend. My personal challenge was to design something elegant enough that I could wear to a business event but also stylish enough that I would wear out to dinner. To me this meant I could not show off lots of skin for a professional work event with a cami or tank top but on the flip-side I didn’t want the tee to be too ‘frumpy’. In the end I decided on a loose fitting tee with long, flared sleeves and a v-neckline on the front and back (don’t worry ladies I provide three different options for the back-panel if you don’t want a low back). I think that the Siren Shell Pullover is definitely something I would wear to a work event or out to dinner, mission accomplished!
The Design Process
Dialing back to my design process, I made many, many swatches before I felt that the Shell and V stitch was the combination that I wanted to use. The Siren Shell Pullover needed an interesting stitch without going overboard like some of the lacier stitches can be. I think the Shell and V stitch is the perfect middle point because it adds fun and definition to the top without going into the “this is too much” territory. I also like that there are some gaps in the pattern stitch but these are not too large. So we can wear just a bra if the weather is too warm without worrying about being too exposed! The stitch also allows for nice movement and has lovely drape, especially because I used a heavier weighted cotton yarn. It hangs beautifully from the shoulders and neckline and also falls nicely from the chest down. You can leave it loose or make a French tuck for a more artfully styled drape.
Sleeve – The Sire Shell Crochet Tee
The Yarn
For the Siren Shell Pullover I decided to use Drops Muskat in Natural. I am absolutely in love with this yarn. I cannot express how incredibly soft and silky this yarn is. It is made from 100% Egyptian mercerised cotton and it is wonderful to work with. It is also heavy enough that you can make good progress working up the Siren Shell Crochet Tee but it still maintains that look of absolute luxury that mercerised cotton yarns can give.
Buy it now
You can here Drops Muskat here from Amazon.
〜Drops Muskat is 100% mercerised cotton. The weight of this cotton is: Yarn group B | DK / Worsted| 8ply
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The Pattern
Please carefully read all of the instructions before you begin working on the Siren Shell Pullover.
Materials
Yarn Weight: Yarn group B | DK / Worsted| 8ply
Suggested Yarn: Garn Studio Drops – Muskat (Natural 08)
Hook: 4mm
Other materials: Scissors, blunt needle, stitch markers x3 and a measuring tape.
Gauge Measuring from SHELL – SHELL: 5 shells / V’s and 10 rows in each 10cm x 10cm (4” x 4”) swatch. To make a gauge swatch follow the pattern stitch (rows, 1, 2 & 3) until you have a swatch slight larger than 10x10cm. Gauge is important for this pullover.
Sizing
The Siren Shell Pullover is oversized. Check your bust measurements and then pick the size that will fit you best according to your measurement.
SizeFinal BustYarn Quantities (Drops Muskat)XS34″12 skeins | 600g | 1200mS36.5″14 skeins | 700g | 1400mM40.5″16 skeins | 800g | 1600mL43.5″18 skeins | 900g | 1800mXL47″21 skeins | 1050g | 2100m
Abbreviations & Terminology
US Terminology
st(s) stitch(es)
ch(s) chain(s)
sk skip a stitch
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
dc double crochet
SHELL 5dc in the same stitch
V [1dc, ch1, 1dc] in same stitch
tch turning chain
rep repeat
Multiples: The pattern stitch uses multiples of 8sts + 4. To make a custom size then chain in multiples of 8 until the chain is wide enough for the panel. Then chain 4 more.
Important Notes
1. The tee is crocheted from the bottom up with a two-row repeat pattern stitch. The first step is to make the front panel. This is crocheted from the bottom hemline upward and the sleeves are then added on either side (no sewing required).
2. The next step is to follow the instructions for creating the V-neckline. One side of the neckline is crocheted upward and then you return to crochet the other side of the neckline. The same process is followed for the back-panel.
3. The final steps are to seam the front-panel and back-panel together, to add edging (a border) and to weave in loose ends.
Gauge
Gauge is extremely important for this pullover. Make sure to check your gauge before beginning.Go up a hook size if you have too many stitches.
~ Go down a hook size if you have too few stitches.
~ Try making your stitch height taller if you have too many rows.
~ Try making your stitch height smaller if you have too few rows.
If changing hook size does not help to meet gauge
~Go down a size if your gauge is too loose (too few stitches and rows compared to the sample gauge).
~ Go up a size if your gauge is too tight (too many stitches and rows compared to the sample gauge).
Adapting the Pattern
Adapting the panel length
~ Check the length measurement from the provided table against yourself to decide if you would like to add to or reduce the length of the panels. You could check this length against another pullover you usually wear if you are unsure about the length.
~ Add more row repeats to the front & back panel instructions either before you create the sleeves or after you have created the sleeves. If you add repeats after adding the sleeves this will also extend the width of the sleeves, which are already quite wide. If you add repeats before the sleeves it will only extend the length of top over the stomach and hip area and not the sleeve width.
Adapting the panel width
~ Add or reduce in multiples of 8 to the foundation chain.
~ If making a complete custom size the stitch pattern multiple is 8sts + 4sts for the foundation chain.
Adapting the sleeve length
~ When chaining to add the sleeves you can add or reduce the given number in the pattern by multiples of 8.
Adapting the sleeve width
~ For tighter fitting sleeves do not add the chains for the sleeves until 2 or 4 rows later If you want looser sleeves then you can add the sleeves 2 or 4 rows before the suggested point in the pattern.
Front Panel
Make x1
The turning chain (ch3) always counts as a stitch (dc). The last stitch of the row is always made the 3rd loop of the turning chain.
Foundation chain: Ch 92 (100, 108, 116, 128) for sizes XS (S, M, L, XL).
Row 1: 2 dc in 4th ch from hook (the skipped 3 ch counts as a dc). *Sk 3 ch, in next ch make a V, sk 3ch in next ch make a SHELL; Rep from * to the last 4ch. Sk 3 chs, in the last ch make 3dc, turn.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 1dc in the same st. *In the ch-1 space of the V-stitch from previous row, make a SHELL. In the center dc of the next 5-dc SHELL of the previous row make a V; Rep from * to the end of the row. Finish the row with 2dc into the last stitch, turn.
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2dc into the same st, *In the center dc of the next 5-dc SHELL, make a V-stitch. In ch-1 space of the next V-stitch make a SHELL. Rep from * to the end of the row. Finish the row with 3dc into the last stitch, turn.
~ TIP After row 2: Check that your panel matches the width for your size (measurement A from the table) . For example, size XS should be 18.5″ or 43cm in width. If your panel is too wide then go down a size (or reduce the foundation chain by multiples of 8) if it is too narrow then go up a size or increase the foundation chain by multples of 8).
Size XS: Rows 4 – 32
Rep rows 2 & 3 or until the panel is 32cm / 12″ in length (23 SHELLs & Vs).
Size S: Rows 4 – 32
Rep rows 2 & 3 or until the panel is 32cm / 12.5″ in length (25S HELLs & Vs).
Size M: Rows 4 – 34
Rep rows 2 & 3 or until the panel is 34cm / 13″ in length (27 SHELLs & Vs).
Size L: Rows 4 – 34
Rep rows 2 & 3 or until the panel is 34cm / 14″ in length (29 SHELLs & Vs).
Size XL: Rows 4 – 36
Rep rows 2 & 3 or until the panel is 36cm / 15″ in length (31 SHELLs & Vs).
~ This section of the panel should always end on a repeat of row 2.
~ When counting the stitches in each row: the cluster of double crochets at the beginning and end of each row count as one stitch on each end.
Adding the Sleeves
The turning chain (ch3) always counts as a stitch (dc). The last stitch of the row is always made the 3rd loop of the turning chain.
Row numbering is reset to row 1.
Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2dc into the same st. *In the center dc of the next 5-dc SHELL, make a V-stitch. In ch-1 space of the next V-stitch make a SHELL. Rep from * to the end of the row. Finish the row with 3dc into the last dc, which is the 3rd chain of the tch. Do not turn work. Instead, continue on by chaining 35. On the other end of the panel, yarn on with a new skein (or long length of yarn). Chain 32 to create the sleeve on the other side. Do not yarn off and leave the last stitch with a big loop pulled up.
Row 2 – Step One: Go back to the first ch35 that you made in the last row and turn your work. The back side of the chain will be facing you. Dc into the 4th ch from hook (the skipped 3 ch counts as a dc). *Sk 3 ch, in next ch make a SHELL, sk 3ch, in next ch make a V; Rep from * to the beginning of the main panel.
Row 2 – Step Two: Make a V into the middle of the 3dc at the beginni ng of the main panel. *In the ch-1 space of the V-stitch from previous row,make a SHELL. In the center dc of the next 5-dc SHELL of the previous row make a V; Rep from * to the end of the panel. Make a V into the middle of the 3dc at the end of the panel.
Row 2 – Step Three: You will now have reached the chain 32 on the other side of the main panel.Sk the last dc of the row and the first 2 chains of the chain 32. *Make a SHELL into the next ch, sk 3 sts, make a V into the next ch, sk 3 ch; Rep from * to the last 4 sts. Finish the row with 2dc into the last loop of the ch 32 (this is the big loop you pulled up at the end of row 1), turn. Cut off the yarn skein / length of yarn you used to make the second ch32, leaving a long tail to weave in later.
Stitch Counts
Size XS: 39 SHELLs & Vs
Size S: 41 SHELLs & Vs
Size M: 43 SHELLs & Vs
Size L: 45 SHELLs & Vs
Size XL: 47 SHELLs & Vs
When countingthe stitches in each row: the cluster of double crochets at the beginning and end of each row count as one stitch on each end.
V-Neckline Side One
All Sizing
The turning chain (ch3) counts as a stitch (dc) for rows 3 – 7. The last stitch of the row is always made the 3rd loop of the turning chain.
Row 3: Ch 3, 2dc into the same st. *In the center dc of the next 5-dc SHELL, make a V-stitch. In ch-1 space of the next V-stitch make a SHELL; Rep from * to the end of the row. Finish the row with 3dc into the last stitch, turn.
Row 4: Ch 3, 1dc in the same st. *In the ch-1 space of the V-stitch from previous row, make a SHELL. In the center dc ofthe next 5-dc SHELL of the previous row make a V; Rep from * to the end of the row, Finish the row with 2dc in last stitch, turn.
Rows 5 – 7 Repeat rows 3 & 4.
Beginning the V-Neckline Side One
All Sizing
Lay the panel down on a flat surface. Mark off the centre SHELL or V of row 7.
Row 8: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 1dc in the same st. *In the ch-1 space of the V-stitch from previous row, make a SHELL. In the center dc of the next 5-dc SHELL of the previous row make a V; Rep from * to the stitch marker. Make 1dc into the middle of the marked off stitch, turn (keep the stitch marker in place for when you make side two of the neckline).
Rows 9, 11, 13, 15, 17 Decrease rows: Slip stitch across to the centre of the next V or the 2nd dc of the next SHELL, make 1dc into this stitch (mark this dc with a stitch marker). Continue working the pattern stitch (SHELLS & Vs) to the end of the row Finish the row with 3dc in the last stitch turn.
Rows 10, 12, 14, 16: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 1dc in the same st. *In the ch-1 space of the V-stitch from previous row, make a SHELL. In the center dc of the next 5-dc SHELL of the previous row make a V; Rep from * to the end of the row. Finish the row with 1dc in the last st (which is the marked off dc from the decrease rows), turn.
Specific Sizing Specific Sizing – End of Decreasing
The turning chain (ch3) counts as a stitch (dc). The last stitch of the row is made the 3rd loop of the turning chain.
Size XS Rows 18– 20: Continue to work in rows of the pattern stitch. Yarn off and weave in ends after las row (15 SHELLs & Vs).
Size S Rows 18– 21: Continue to work in rows of the pattern stitch. Yarn off and weave in ends after las row (16 SHELLs & Vs).
Size M Rows 18– 22: Continue to work in rows of the pattern stitch. Yarn off and weave in ends after las row (17 SHELLs & Vs).
Size L & XL Rows 18– 23: Continue to work in rows of the pattern stitch. Yarn off and weave in ends after las row (18, 19 SHELLs & Vs).
*Tip* When counting the stitches in each row: the cluster of double crochets at the beginning and end of each row count as one stitch on each end.
V-Neckline Side 2
All Sizing
The turning chain (ch3) counts as a stitch (dc). The last stitch of the row is made the 3rd loop of the turning chain.
Row 8: Yarn onto the the centre stitch that is still marked off on the centre of the panel on row 7. [Slip stitch, 1dc] into this stitch. Into the next stitch work in the pattern stitch (SHELLS & Vs) until the end of the row. Finish the row with 2dc into the last dc, turn.
Rows 9, 11, 13, 15, 17 Decrease rows: Ch 3, 2dc into the same st. *In the center dc of the next 5-dc SHELL, make a V-stitch. In ch-1 space of the next V-stitch make a SHELL; Rep from * to the last SHELL or V. Finish the row with 1 dc into the centre of this SHELL or V, turn.
Rows 10, 12, 14, 16: Slip stitch across to the centre of the next V or the 3rd dc of the next SHELL.
Into the centre of a V: [ch3 (counts as dc), 4dc].
Into the centre of a SHELL: [ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), 1dc].
Continue working the pattern stitch (alternating SHELLS & Vs) to the end of the row. Finish the row with 2dc into the last st, turn.
Specific Sizing Specific Sizing – End of Decreasing
The turning chain (ch3) counts as a stitch (dc). The last stitch of the row is made the 3rd loop of the turning chain.
Size XS Rows 18– 20: Continue to work in rows of the pattern stitch. Yarn off and weave in ends after las row (15 SHELLs & Vs).
Size S Rows 18– 21: Continue to work in rows of the pattern stitch. Yarn off and weave in ends after las row (16 SHELLs & Vs).
Size M Rows 18– 22: Continue to work in rows of the pattern stitch. Yarn off and weave in ends after las row (17 SHELLs & Vs).
Size L & XL Rows 18– 23: Continue to work in rows of the pattern stitch. Yarn off and weave in ends after las row (18,19 SHELLs & Vs).
When counting the stitches in each row: the cluster of double crochets at the beginning and end of each row count as one stitch on each end.
Back Panel Options
This pullover can be made with two different neck-line options for the back panel.
OPTION 1: A v-neckline on the back identical to the v-neckline on the front panel. Repeat the instructions for the front-panel to make an identical back panel with a V-neckline.
OPTION 2: A straight neckline on the back panel). Follow the instructions on the following pages for a straight-back neckline on the back panel.
Back Panel Option 2 – Straight Neckline
Repeat the instructions for the V-Neckline up to and including row 2 of adding the sleeves.
The turning chain (ch3) always counts as a stitch (dc). The last stitch of the row is always made the 3rd loop of the turning chain.
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2dc into the same st, *In the center dc of the next 5-dc SHELL, make a V-stitch. In ch-1 space of the next V-stitch make a SHELL; Rep from * to the end of the row. Finish the row with 3dc into the last stitch, turn.
Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 1dc in the same st. *In the ch-1 space of the V-stitch from previous row, make a SHELL. In the center dc of the next 5-dc SHELL of the previous row make a V; Rep from * to the end of the row. Finish the row with 2dc into the last stitch, turn.
Size XS: Rows 5 – 20
Rep rows 3 & 4. Yarn off and weave in ends after las row (39 SHELLs & Vs).
Size S Rows 5– 21
Rep rows 3 & 4. Yarn off and weave in ends after las row (41 SHELLs & Vs).
Size M Rows 5– 22
Rep rows 3 & 4. Yarn off and weave in ends after las row (43 SHELLs & Vs).
Size L & XL Rows 5– 23
Rep rows 3 & 4. Yarn off and weave in ends after las row (43 SHELLs & Vs).
When counting the stitches in each row: the cluster of double crochets at the beginning and end of each row count as one stitch on each end.
Seaming the Panels
On a flat surface lay the back panel and the front panel directly on top of one another:
~ The back panel should be right-side facing down.
~ The front panel should be right-side facing up.
Using some of your yarn and a yarn / tapestry needle, use the mattress stitch to sew:
~ From the beginning of the v-neckline to the cuff of the sleeve. This is indicated with an orange arrow.
~ From the underneath of the cuff to the main panel and down to the hemline. This is indicated with a green arrow. You will not have clear stitches to seam into but you can still use this sewing technique evenly sew around the chain spaces. Make sure to keep the panels lined up and the sew evenly.
~ When finished seaming both sides, weave in all loose ends.
You can watch a video tutorial for the mattress stitch from Heart Hook Home below
Finishing Touches: The Edging
The sample pullover has a single crochet edging around:
~ The neckline (It is very important that you make the single crochet edging around the neckline as it will smooth out the bumps that have been left from decreasing);
~ The hemline;
~ The cuffs.
The Neckline
Round 1: Yarn on to the neckline on the back panel. Ch1, 1sc into the same stitch. Evenly sc into the side of each stitch around. Be careful not to make these stitches too tight. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the ch1 from the beginning of the round. Yarn off and weave in loose ends. The Hemline
Round 1: Yarn on at the seam on one side. Ch1, 1sc into the same stitch. Sc into each stitch around. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the ch1 from the beginning of the round. Continue with round 2 or yarn off and weave in loose ends.
Round 2 (optional): To pull in the hemline slightly you can continue with a second round made of slip stitches. Slip stitch in each stitch around. Yarn off and weave in loose ends.
The Cuffs
Round 1: Yarn on at the seam on one side. Ch1, 1sc into the same stitch. Sc into each stitch around. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the ch1 from the beginning of the round. Continue with round 2 or yarn off and weave in loose ends.
Round 2 (optional): To pull in the cuffs slightly you can continue with a second round made of slip stitches. Slip stitch in each stitch around. Yarn off and weave in loose ends. The image to the right was completed with a single crochet and a slip stitch round.
Tester Pullovers
The Siren Shell Pullover was tested by a very talented group of crafters. A big thank you to testers Jo Spencer, Jenny Gibson, Louise Duggan, Stephanie Phillips-Nunn, Laura Craft & Elize du Toit.
I hope you have enjoyed making the Siren Shell Pullover as much I have designing it. I would love to see your finished pieces, you can share them with me here:
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